3-5 preprod markers.rtf

Preproduction Grading Pattern verification Cut order planning Marker making Spreading Cutting Bundling Grading Increasing or decreasing dimensions of a pattern at specific points according to certain grade rules or proportional change Used to create a series of sizes of the same style Validation/Verification Assigning a style number Checking fit and measurement Verifying pattern press shapes, alignment and notch placement Date entry for Bill of Materials Customer approvals Verification of costs Pattern Verification Checking grade increments Checking compatibility of grading with style specs Checking length and alignment of adjoining seams Checking notch placement and alignment of adjoining pieces Checking placement of internal markings Checking placement of grain marking Cut Order Planning Translates customer orders into cutting orders Coordinates marker making, spreading and cutting Responsibilities Examine incoming orders with piece goods width and availability Determine volume, size ratios and sectioning procedure for markers Determine use of file markers or new ones Develop specs for optimum markers and fabric utilization Determine effect use of equipment Issue orders for markers, spreading and cutting Fabric Defect Map Identifies locations of breaks, flaws, width variations and length of pieces on a roll Provided by mill or fabric scanner Enable planner to estimate number of plies and cuttable garment from each roll Cutting Orders Direct marker planning Most efficient combination of sizes, shades Best fabric yield Best equipment utilization Direct Lay Planning Managing cutting room labor, space and equipment Marker Making Orders from cut, order, planning Process of determining the most efficient layout for a specific style, fabric and volume Arranging pattern pieces for cutting Dependant on the cuttable width of fabric Marker Dimension Length Width Blocked or sectioned (1 or 2 sizes only) Continuous Splice marks Efficiency or utilization Plotter- prints markers Making Markers Manual Computerized Open- fabric is open/flat, exposed Closed- tubular goods (knits) Mode- direction pieces get laid in marker. Nap of fabric or print (Ex: Velveteen) NOW- Nap One way (issues with shading, 1 size) NEW- Nap Either Way NUD- Nap Up and Down (Ex: Corduroy)