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- University of Houston - main campus
- Geology
- Geology 1330
- Lytwyn
- Ch. 20: Shorelines
Ch. 20: Shorelines
Geology 1330 with Lytwyn at University of Houston - main campus
About this deck
By: Jenn McCaskill
Created: 2011-05-03
Size: 63 flashcards
Views: 33
Created: 2011-05-03
Size: 63 flashcards
Views: 33
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backshore
the inner portion of the shore, lying landward of the high-tide shoreline. It is usually dry, being affected by waves only during storms
barrier island
a low, elongate ridge of sand that parallels the coast
baymouth bar
a sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from the main body of water
beach
an accumulation of sediment found along the landward margin of the ocean or lake
beach drift
the transport of sediment in a zigzag pattern along a beach, caused by the uprush of water from obliquely breaking waves
beach face
the wet, sloping surface that extends from the berm to the shoreline
beach nourishment
process by which large quantities of sand are added to the beach system to offset losses caused by wave erosion. Building beaches seaward improves beach quality and storm protection
berm
the dry, gently sloping zone on the backshore of a beach at the foot of the coastal cliffs or dunes
breakwater
a structure protecting a nearshore area from breaking waves
coast
a strip of land that extends inland from the coastline as far as ocean-related features can be found
coastline
the coat's seaward edge. The landward limit of the effect of the highest storm waves on the shore
ebb current
The movement of tidal current away from the shore
emergent coast
a coast where land formerly below sea level has been exposed by crustal uplift or a drop in sea level or both
estuary
a funnel-shaped inlet of the sea that formed when a rise in sea level or subsidence of land caused the mouth of a river to be flooded
foreshore
that portion of the shore lying between the normal high and low water marks; the intertidal zone
groin
a short wall built at a right angle to the seashore to trap moving sand
jetties
a pair of structures extending into the ocean at the entrance to a harbor or river that are built for the purpose of projecting against storm waves and sediment deposition
longshore current
a nearshore current that flows parallel to the shore
neap tide
the lowest tidal range, occurring near the times of the first and third quarters of the moon
nearshore
the zone of a beach that extends from the low-tide shoreline seaward to where waves break at low tide
offshore zone
the relatively flat submerged zone that extends from the breaker line to the edge of the continental shelf
sea arch
an arch formed by wave erosion when caves on opposite sides of a headland unite
sea stack
an isolated volcanic peak that rises at least 1000 meters above the deep-ocean floor
shore
seaward of the coast, this zone extends from the highest level of wave action during storms to the lowest tide level
shoreline
the line that marks the contact between land and sea. It migrates up and down as the tide rises and falls
spit
an elongate ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
spring tide
the highest tidal range. Occurs near the times of the new and full moons
submergent coast
a coast whose form is largely the result of the partial drowning of a former land surface due to a rise of sea level or subsidence of the crust, or both
surf zone
a collective term for breakers; also the wave activity in the area between the shoreline and the outer limit of breakers.
tidal current
the alternating horizontal movement of water associated with the rise and fall of the tide
tidal delta
a deltalike feature created when a rapidly moving tidal current emerges from a narrow inlet and slows, depositing its load of sediment
tidal flats
a marshy or muddy area that is alternately covered and uncovered by the rise and fall of the tide
tide
periodic change in the elevation of the ocean surface
tombolo
a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or to another island
wave-cut cliff
a seaward-facing cliff along a steep shoreline formed by wave erosion in its base and mass wasting
wave-cut platform
a bench or shelf along at shore at sea level, cut by wave erosion
wave height
the vertical distance between the trough and the crest of a wave
wavelength
the horizontal distance separating successive crests or troughs
wave period
the time interval between the passage of successive crests at a stationary point
wave refraction
a change in direction of waves as they enter shallow water.
The portion of the wave in shallow water is slowed, which causes the waves to bend and align with the underwater contours
____________ are coastal structures designed to keep tidal and harbor inlets from shifting location or filling with sand.
Jetties
A natural sand bar or low, sand ridge that connects one island to another island or to the mainland is called a __________.
Tombolo
What statement about barrier islands is false?
The beach side of barrier islands is identical to the lagoon side in terms of overall appearance, types of sediments, and vegetation
_____________ are built more or less parallel to the beach.
Seawalls
________ are the maximum-amplitude tides produced when the Sun, Earth, and Moon are aligned.
Spring tides
T/F Neap tides are produced when the Moon is at right angles to the line connecting the Earth and Sun.
TRUE
A _________ tide is a tidal current flowing through an inlet into a bay or estuary.
Flood
A __________ refers to the broad dome of water moving with the eye and frontal portion of a hurricane.
Storm surge
___________ currents move sand and water parallel to the beach.
Longshore
Which one of the following features is not characteristic of a submergent coastline?
Elevated, wave-cut terraces
Which one of the following coastlines would typically have wave-cut cliffs, sea stacks, sea arches, and wave-cut platforms?
A coastline where bedrock is vigorously eroded as sea level rises
Water movement and sand transport parallel to the beach are fundamentally caused by...
Waves impinging obliquely onto a beach
T/F Tidal flats are mostly submerged during ebb tides.
FALSE
Large estuaries are more common on a(n) ___________ coastline.
Submergent
How does wave refraction affect the crest and trough orientations of incoming waves along a beach?
As the waves move into shallower water, the angle between the wave crests and shoreline decreases and the crests become more parallel with the shoreline
A deep-water wave exists when...
The water depth exceeds one-half the wavelength
A ____________ is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform.
sea stack
How are spits and baymouth bars formed?
Sand is deposited partly or completely across an inlet or bay by beach drift and longshore currents
Which term doesn't belong with the others?
sea stack
Swash and backwash describe...
Movements of water and sand as waves wash up and back again on a beach
About this deck
By: Jenn McCaskill
Created: 2011-05-03
Size: 63 flashcards
Views: 33
Created: 2011-05-03
Size: 63 flashcards
Views: 33
About StudyBlue
STUDYBLUE makes things that make you better at school.
Things like online flashcards with photos and audio.
Things like personalized quizzes and friendly reminders about when (and what) to study next.
Think of it as a digital backpack™: access to all of your study materials online and on your phone.
STUDYBLUE exists to make studying efficient and effective for every student, for free. Join us.
“I have used this website for three exams, and I see a huge difference in my test results.”
Naj
Naj