Lecture 9 (for exam 2)
Natural Resources And Environmental Science 150 with Chamberlain at Colorado State University
About this deck
By: Taylor Carpenter
Textbook:
Oceanography the Science of the Sea
Created: 2011-03-21
Size: 52 flashcards
Views: 10
Textbook:
Oceanography the Science of the SeaCreated: 2011-03-21
Size: 52 flashcards
Views: 10
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Surface tension of the water tends to limit the size of:
Capillary waves
As the wind velocity increases during a storm:
The wave height increases.
The ultimate height og a wind wave will depend on:
All of the above.
As wind waves move out of a storm area:
The waves are sorted by velocity and form the swell.
Most waves in the open ocean have an average height of:
Less than 3 meters.
when waves approach the shore, a series of changes take place. One change is that the:
Wave crest forms a steep peak.
Near shore, if the wave creasts are two hundred feet apart, the wave will "feel" bottom when the depth is about:
100 feet.
Waves at the shore will start to break when the:
Water depth is about four-thirds the wave height.
The horizontal distance between two successsive waves' crests is called:
Wave length
Ordinary ocean waves derive their energy from:
Winds.
When waves reach shollow water they become:
Shorter and higher
On an irregular shoreline, the energy of a wave is:
Concentrated mostly on the headands by wave refraction.
Beach drift moves water and sediment:
Along the beach in a zig-zag path.
Which if the following is correct rergarding a wave in the open ocean?
All of the above.
When are waves affected by the sea floor. That is, when do waves begin to "feel bottom"?
When water depth is equal to one-half the wavelength
When eaves reach shallow water, they are often bent and tend to become parrallel to the shore. This process is referred to as:
Refraction.
The time between two successive waves is called the:
Period.
The distance from crest to creast in adjacent wave forms is the:
Wavelength.
In deep-water waves:
Water depth is more than one-half the wavelength
Tidal crests that moce into rivers create a wave in the river called a:
Tidal Bore.
The literal translation of the Japansese word TSUMANI into English:
Harbour -Wave
As waves enter shallow water, the interaction of the wave with the shoaling bottom modifies all of the wave parameters except:
Period (t)
A tsunami can be idenitfied by its distinctive period (t) of:
15 minutes to 1 hour.
Which of the following occurs when the Sun, Moon and Earth are in alignment (i.e. in oppposition or conjunction)?
Maximum tidal ranges occur.
Regular patterns of smooth, rounded waves are called:
Swells.
Waves in shallow water that "feel bottom" are _______ and more _______ spaced than the swell they are related to.
Taller; Closely.
An earthquake, submarine landlside, or eruption of an undersea volcano is capable of producing a:
Tsunami
An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have:
Two nearly equal low tides and two nearlt equal high tides daily.
An area that experiences diurnal tides will have:
One high tide and one low tide daily.
A tsunami is considered to be a:
Shallow water wave
As a deep-water wave converts into a shallow-water wave nearshore (depth<wavelength), its:
Wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
"Deep-water" wave destinatioon refers to a wave in water depths greater than:
1/2 of its length.
When waves approach the shore, if the bottom is a sttep slope:
The waves will plunge.
Waves tend to be parallel to the shore when they break due to the process of:
Refraction.
Internal waves are thought to be generated by:
Energy from wind waves or tides moving into deeper water.
Roque waves are best described as:
A single massive wave that develops in the open ocean.
Storm surges are:
Associated with the onshore arrival of a powerful cyclonic storm.
In the open sea, tsunami reach an average wave height of about:
1 meter.
When a tsunami reaches shore:
The wave height is increased by entry into shallow water.
What wave form typically carries the greatest amount of energy through the ocean surface at any given time?
Wind waves
Tsunami or seismic sea waves are generated by:
Coastal or submarine earthquakes.
In the open sea, tsunami:
Are long-period waves, often of 15-20 minutes.
Large, dangerous seismic sea-waves resulting from Earth displacement at/or under the sea associated with major earthquakes are called:
Tsunami
A long-term effect of wave refraction is:
To straighten a coast.
Solution, abrasion, and hydraulic action are factors involved in:
Wave erosion.
Waves have three parameters that control the amount of energy transferred from the wind to the ocean: speed, duration and fetch. Fetch is:
The distance the wind blows without changing direction.
Low and high tides are created due to:
The gravitational interactions of the Sun-Earth-Moon system.
The daily tidal range is greatest during _______ tide:
Spring.
The daily tidal range is least during _______ tide:
Neap.
When there are two high tides and two low tides each tidal day, the pattern is described as:
Semidiurnal.
When there is a single high tide and a single low tide each tidal day, the pattern is described as:
Diurnal.
The path of movement of a water particle in a wave at sea is:
Circular.
About this deck
By: Taylor Carpenter
Textbook:
Oceanography the Science of the Sea
Created: 2011-03-21
Size: 52 flashcards
Views: 10
Textbook:
Oceanography the Science of the SeaCreated: 2011-03-21
Size: 52 flashcards
Views: 10
About StudyBlue
STUDYBLUE makes things that make you better at school.
Things like online flashcards with photos and audio.
Things like personalized quizzes and friendly reminders about when (and what) to study next.
Think of it as a digital backpack™: access to all of your study materials online and on your phone.
STUDYBLUE exists to make studying efficient and effective for every student, for free. Join us.
“I have been getting MUCH better grades on all my tests for school. Flash cards, notes, and quizzes are great on here. Thanks!”
Kathy
Kathy