Eave Nouveau ? Perm by soft sheen. Step 1 Client Consultation-Analysis Step 2 A patch test is recommended 24 hours prior to giving a cold wave. Reshape-allow to dry. Rinse with cool water; apply Natural Lock-rinse with cool water. Step 3 Test curl Direction for use: Test two different areas. Use two different size rods. Apply crème reshape. Wrap section on a rid and process for 10 minutes. Unwind rod ½ to 2 turns and check for S formation. Achieve optimum wave pattern-rinse-neutralize and proceed with application. Step 4 The client should receive a pre-sudsing to assure penetration of Wave Nouvau Crème Reshape. Conduct an open palm sudsing. Rinse with low-pressure tepid water. Towel dries gently, but thoroughly to remove excess water. Step 5 Base your client?s hairline and ears. Section into 4 quadrants Begin in the most resistant area (usually the back and work up to the crown.) Apply reshape ¼ away from scalp through the mid-shaft and ends. ¼ sub-sections. Allow to process All to process according to the timing chart and the test curl. Hair should be smooth and straight once completely processed. Do not use hairdryer. Timing Chart Color Treated formula ? fine or color treated hair 20-25 minutes Normal formula-normal, medium textured, non-distant hair 20-25 minutes. Resistant-resistant, course, non-porous 10-15 minutes. Processing Time Normal-fine or color treated hair 20-25 minutes. Color treated-Med. Texture, non resistant 20-25 minutes. Resistant, coarse, non-porous ? 10-15 minutes Step 6 Rinse after desired relaxing is reached. Apply wrapping solution-wrap humectants Wrap with humectants-not water. Section Apply with Wrap Humectants generously as you wrap. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Using a large tooth comb, gently comb wave Nouveau Wrap Humectants through to the ends of the hair to ensure total distribution. Begin application and wrapping in the most resistant area of the head (generally the nape or crown area) which has been determined by the test strand. Rinsing After the desired wave pattern has been achieved, remove the cotton strip. Rinse hair thoroughly on the rod for 5 to 10 minutes using tepid water. It is critical to towel blot each rod. Chemical Texture services Permanently alter the wave pattern Curl straight hair and add volume Straighten over curly hair, and smooth Soften coarse, straight hair, and make it easier to work with. Types of texture services Permanent waving Soft-curl permanents also known as curl reforming Chemical hair relaxing Structure of hair Cuticle The touch outer layer of the hair; surrounds the inner layers and protects hair from damage Strong compact cuticle Hair is resistant to penetration by chemicals and difficult to work with. Cortex Middle layer of hair located beneath cuticle Responsible for hairs strength and elasticity Side bonds must be broken to change the natural wave pattern Medulla Innermost layer of hair pH and texture pH means potential hydrogen and measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance the pH scale has a range from 0 ? 14 with 7 being neutral. The natural pH of hair is between 4.5 and 5.5 Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state to soften and swell the hair. Building blocks of the hair Amino acids Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen Peptide bonds (end bonds) Link amino acids together in long chains Polypeptide chains Formed by bonds that are linked together to form a polypeptide chain. Keratin proteins Long chains of amino acids linked together by peptide bonds or end bonds; they make up about 97% of hair?s structure. Side bonds (Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds) cross link polypeptide chains together. CAUTION: polypeptide chains should NOT be broken as this will weaken the hair and cause breakage Cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side bonds, or cross bonds. Disulfide bonds Formed when sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Can only be broken by chemicals; account for about one-third of hairs strength. Salt bonds Relatively weak and result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges Easily broken by changes in pH. Hydrogen bonds Similar to salt bonds but are easily broken by water or heat and re-form as hair dries or cools. Client Consultation One of the most important steps in a successful texture service Consultation guidelines Introduce self; greet client by name. Ask open ended questions. Find out why clients want the texture service and what results are expected. Review photos with client. Determine exactly what is wanted. Ask about past texture services. Determine what client liked and didn?t like about like about last service. Ask about current style. Discuss changes that would result from a texture service. Determine desired finish style. Consider the haircut and degree of texture or relaxing that is needed. Evaluate condition, texture, and wave pattern of hair. Fill out chemical service record. Document hair condition and desired outcome. Perform a metallic salt test. Home hair coloring products containing metallic salts are not compatible with chemical texture services. Perform metallic salt test to prevent damage. Test: In glass or plastic bowl, mix 1 oz of 20 volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Immerse at least 20 strands of hair in solution for 30 minutes. If metallic salts are not present, hair will lighten slightly and you may proceed. If metallic salts are present, hair will lighten rapidly and solution may get hot and emit an unpleasant odor. Do not proceed with service. Client Records Include a complete hair analysis Record previous problems or adverse reactions. Record service details. Type of product used, type and size of perm tools used, base direction, base control, wrapping technique, wrapping pattern, processing time, and results achieved. Update records with each service. Client release form Signed prior to a service. May or may not release school or salon from responsibility Scalp Analysis Look for cuts, scratches, or open sores; do not proceed with service if skin abrasions or scalp diseases are present. Refer to physician. Hair Analysis Hair is the fastest growing appendage of the human body. Hair is affected by diet, exercise, medications, and stress. Five most important factors Texture Density Porosity Elasticity Growth Direction. Hair Textire Describes the diameter of a single strand of hair and is classified as fine, medium, or coarse Coarse hair Usually requires more processing time. May be resistant. More difficult to penetrate. Medium hair Most common, considered normal and does not pose any special problems. Fine hair More fragile, easier to process, more susceptible to damage; generally will process faster than medium or coarse hair Hair Density Measures the number of strands of hair on the head per square inch; indicates how thick or think hair is. Hair Porosity The ability of the hair to absorb moisture; directly relates to condition of cuticle layer; classified as resistant, normal, or porous. Resistant hair Has tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration; requires a more alkaline solution; requires a slow and thorough application of perm solution. Normal hair Normal resistant nor overly porous; texture services usually process as expected. Porous hair Has a raised cuticle and easily absorbs solution; requires less alkaline solution; a lower pH minimizes swelling and helps prevent damage to Hair elasticity The ability of the hair to stretch and return to normal shape without breaking. Indicates the strength of the side bonds that hold individual fiber
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